Thursday, 29 July 2010
However, away from the sales, I was very please to have acquired the new Oxford Shirt that Oliver Spencer has done for Oi Polloi. Not too dissimilar from this summers cricket shirt, this subtle blend of fine intricate detail such as the rounded pocket and blue gusset hem has got all the trappings of the understated and eye pleasing coolness that Oliver Spencer has become known for. In a gorgeous blended purple colour, I'm sure this will turn heads for all the right reasons.
As i have previously stated, my sales spending has been quite erratic, although well justified in my humble opinion. Among some of the gems i have picked up, Including past featured Opening Ceremony Fisherman's Smock, Wood Woods Take on the raglan sweater, YMCs exceptional block colour cardigan and Denim in the form of a pair of crisp Lee Dexter. I have also added the following effort from Opening Ceremony. I'm really getting into some of the designs that Opening Ceremony are putting out, as they are creating a rather unique look... This epic knit-polo, complete with dashing chambray collar was an absolute steal and looks quite the picture with recently bagged Wrangler Blue Bell Eric Chinos.... Hazaaaa, let the good times roll. Here's to the winter sales, but before hand, a sift through the forthcoming collections for more quality, bang on clobber!
Wednesday, 28 July 2010
On the night, Mark E and Move D are among the other protagonists of Deep, Soulful and Discofied sounds and I'm sure come 6am, the soles of my recently purchased Quoddy' will be well and truly worn in.
However with the ever increasing number of new, unique & fresh label's that come out you can sometime's miss that all important first batch of clothing from said new brand, or the first proper year after a settling in period, this year i was lucky (or eager) enough to get everything on the list, almost like my own personal ongoing christmas........ apart from one thing.
Norsea Industries, a label from the north of england that seem's dedicated in churning out well made british clothing with a modern edge, first hitting the u.s in the middle of spring summer 2009 a whole year ago.
With the first collection being quite camp with nautical influences it was a/w 2009/10 that saw it bring out some key very nice piece's including at the time an overhead canvas cagoule called the Rudda, it was nice enough but was re-released this spring summer 2010 with slight modification's and what a turn out they delivered, i was a little slow on the buzzer and missed out on my size from one of only two places who stocked it, not addicted & daniel jenkin's in monmouth, tired of mailing norsea ind' i have admitted defeat and finally realised i have to let it go..... but not before showing you in all it's glory, here's hoping to it's re-re-release.....
So without further ado, Here's the latest mix that myself and good friend Dave Edwards have laid down for your listening pleasure.
It's a rich blend of Deep Warm Disco, Soulful Tech and House Grooves.... Perfect to get your head into.
Corrupted Disco - Groove infection by Corrupted Disco
Corrupted Disco - Groove Infection
1. Hot Toddy feat N'Dea Davenport - Down to Love (Shiney Objects Remix)
2. Soul Clap - Love Light
3. Kolombo - My Old Piano
4. Sean Bronson - Sat Jam (Ray Mang Remix)
5. Wagon Cookin - Make you Dance (Spirit Catcher Remix)
6. Electric Jones - Mold On
7. 40 Thieves feat Quen - Dont Turn It Off (Greg Wilson Edit)
8. Neighbourhood Romeo - No You Call Him
9. Fruit Loops - Dance Dance Dane (12 inch version)
10. The Whsipers - And it Goes (Mungas Crackhead mix)
11. Sharon Brown - Specialize in Love (DiscoMunga Re work)
12. Jamie Jones - Rukus
13. Soul Clap - Rock the Boat
14. Johnny Dynell - Jam Hot (Tensnake Remix)
Tuesday, 27 July 2010
Thing's change, thing's move on & people move on, at the end of the day that's what the original casual scene was about, fast moving lot's of change's & various look's. i alway's have a good nose at the internet and see what's happening, what's about and where people are going to next just because i am interested, the football has had it's day let's face it, it's nothing what it was and never will be again, so many are stuck in a rut and so many are doing what they have alway's done... there's nothing wrong with that before anyone think's it's being slated, it's just that there is so much more out there, the bigger the casual tree inside you, the deeper your root's and the more you can branch off, i think you move with what whatever it is your into, be it music, narcotic's, fashion or football without trying to sound too corny and before i get into what sound's like a preacher man delivering his sermon on a sunday afternoon.. it's all about change and a natural progression.
With so many good label's knocking around these day's it's hard to not delve into them, and rightly so, spoilt for choice on what to pick up with my hard earned & that can only be a good thing, below my friend Saul has taken the mighty quoddy out of my sweaty palm's before i could get in on it and rave on about the outstanding grizzly boot, but as i said with so much to rival it's all good, my passion for clothing and footwear is at it's highest height's and it's only going one way, lot's of inspiration out there, the industrial look which imho has fused into a joint affair with workwear, and the top end casual market, label's bringing out so many good thread's they should be locked up, with spring summer coming to an end i am finishing off the last of the buy's before the a/w step's out in a week or two, looking forward to woolrich woolen mill's last season of daiki suzuki as he step's out and take's full control of engineered garment's leaving the talented mark mcnairy at the helm of woolen mill's, exciting times & who know's where he will take it, joined by the mighty heritage research, haversack, garbstore, nigel cabourn, post overall's, ts(s), albam, trickers, quoddy, folk, norse proj', oliver spencer, universal work's, yuketen, mark mcnairy, and so many other's i just can't wait to see what good's they are churning out.
Plenty of branches on this tree and theyve got their greedy bark all over these last piece's before august turn's out......
Meg company's Santo Domingo boot hand crafted in mexico, these are definately an acquired taste and probably not for most, but i fell for them, i fell for them like a chunky boned fella stumbling into his first gregg's bakery, vibram sole unit, brown and navy suede, multi coloured stitching, vegetable tanned leather....
Garbstore Huntsman jacket - i was after a tan 3 button blazer something i could layer with and this fit's the bill nicely, dart tapered waist so it's more fitted which is suiting me just fine with a new fitness trip, random pocket's and a cracking tan colour, right up my street
However, i recently invested in the Maine based footwear craftsmanship of Quoddy and i can honestly say i have been well and truly blown away by the quality and detail of the work carried out by these engineers of finery.
Originally salivating over the Malisteet Oxford in a fetching peanut leather, i decided to purchase the same shoe but in the Navy / Gum addition, they came complete with a rather natty dust bag and other little bits and pieces and were well worth the beadage that I spent on them.
Quoddy prides itself on the time, effort and skill that goes into making each individual shoe perfect for the wearer... The next few extracts are from Quoddy themselves, who better to put their undeniable passion into words?
In 1909 Harry Smith Shorey started making his own shoes in Downeast Maine. Today, the tradition continues in Perry , on the shores of Passamaquoddy Bay, smack dab on the 45th parallel; half-way to the North Pole and as far east as you can travel in the continental U.S.
The Passamaquoddy tribe of eastern Maine have an ages old heritage of craftsmanship, from their moccasins to their birch bark canoes and containers to their famous woven baskets, all done without man-made materials or adhesives. Craftsmanship combined with a high level of artistry are what made these products special and allowed them to perform so well in the sometimes harsh conditions encountered in the big woods and ever changing ocean of Maine.
Harry was a big believer in the performance and quality of handsewn moccasin construction. It is legendary for its comfort, durability, and ability to conform to one’s foot over time for a true custom fit. Quoddy continues this long tradition of handsewn craftsmanship today.
Quoddy harkens back to the time when hand-made was the norm, when output was measured in dozens, not thousands. In a large modern factory individual shoes pass through the hands of as many as seventy people before leaving the factory floor. At Quoddy, one person handsews your shoes at their bench - the quality of that pair is a testament to the individual skill that went into making them.
The NYC Downlow tent saw two disco heavyweights Horse Meat Disco and Disco Bloodbath sparring over the decks all day. This had to be seen. For those unfamiliar with the NYC Downlow set up, the tent is designed to look like a shady pre-Giuliani New York club, complete with neon lights, yellow cabs and transvestite ushers. I passed the leather clad hosts on the door and entered a world packed with heaving bodies writhing in intense heat to 70s disco classics. There was a special feeling in here unlike anywhere else over the three day event. Those who were in there hadn’t stumbled across it by accident – these were devoted music fans who had come here to hear that blend mix of disco, electro and vintage house that have made the boys from Disco Bloodbath heavyweights on the ultra-cool end of London club scene. The homo-erotic associations were clear for all to see, but as classic after classic was fed to the baying crowd disco displayed its undying ability to unify a crowd regardless of sexuality, gender or race.
Wednesday, 21 July 2010
Neat, rolled Selvage denim, Yuketten Moccasins, Shirts of different cut and style, predominantly checked have become a noticeable trend around the area that’s made up of Manchester’s creative community. An older purveyor of this North Western look paces purposefully past. Breaking only his stare to assess my own get up. No doubt an Oi Polloi aficionado, all that’s missing from the scenario is his trusty copy of manzine. One hundred and eighty miles to the south, a pair of worn, Grenson brogue boots clatter around the cobbled thoroughfares of Spitalfields. They pass through the old meat market and head towards Albam and the old Truman brewery. An array of Rolled Chinos, Chambray shirts and slicked side partings caress the look of online fashion blog flaneurs. There are plenty of wayfarers on display amid the younger disciples and deck shoes are also in abundance. However, the enthusiasts of inventory magazine have more than a hint of self-justification about them. Americana echoes around East London.
Of course, this is all complete nonsense. Surely with the way things are in this day and age there cannot be any real evident style variations based upon our location? Or can there?
Without unravelling the rich tapestry of history relating to the Manchester and London divide, it’s clear that a definitive attitude difference is prevalent, perhaps not in the cities Boutiques, but definitely by their respective customers. You can draw some paralleled comparisons between the laid back, creative community of the Northern Quarter; with its subtle blend of inner city mettle and cosmopolitan undertones and that of the area around East London that takes on the same guise, as a thriving hub of ideas and creativity.
When exiting Liverpool street station, turning left as to venture towards Hackney and Shoreditch, the atmosphere is one of a hustle and bustled nature. After taking the small side streets and caverns that are stained with the inestimable tales of time, you finally pick up the scent of the area around brick lane and with it, the haven laid old-Truman brewery. While walking around this metamorphosed jungle of colour and exuberance, it's unmistakable that it is indeed London that lies beneath the soles of your feet. It’s a palatable sensation.
Manchester on the other hand has always been regarded as the second city, even though it boasts as much cultural nous as London does, if not more significant within the vials of human creativity. It's among the old networks of Victorian cobbled streets, where once the scuttlers of old clattered in their skulduggery, that a true attitude of one up-manship and self-importance came to beautiful fruition. The protagonists of this knowledge and self-confidence, which is most justifiable, is a far echo from that often contrived coolness that descends upon the streets of our nations capital.
The debate that has raged on for decades, which has taken up so much newsreel and magazine column inches is one that will never cease to end. But is it really down to a North / South rivalry of style and culture, or is it that incessant spark that ignites our passions and evidently makes us who we are, no matter what post code we fall under.
copyright Saul Wilks. 23/7/2010.
Sunday, 18 July 2010
Muchos Amore' Amigos...
Thursday, 15 July 2010
Big Love one and all, Enjoy!
Romanthony - Up all night (Disco Vocal Mix)
Every now and again, two things come together that are totally unexpected. Sometimes this meeting of difference is so unimaginable it yields strange and fascinating results... Other times it exemplifies innovation and brilliance. If i was to be given a spade right now, i would be digging Wood Woods forth coming collaboration with oldskool Tennis label Ellesse until i reached the earths core. I find the idea of a Swedish street wear brand and an old skool sports label such as Ellesse coming together rather interesting - like Kim Jones and Umbro. However, one thing cannot be mistaken from these promotional pictures (that I've plain hijacked from Hanon Shop) .... And that is that this project is looking very fucking cool, very cool indeed. So get your old skool bucket hats at the ready, this is one person who'll be investing in some rather unusual and eclectic thread ware from the most unlikely of partnerships since Sol Campbell went to the red side of North London.
Wednesday, 14 July 2010
The other reason i enjoy a good session of Bwrw glaw' (rain, for those unfamiliar with the Celtic tongue) is that it means i can exercise my right to break out a jacket or two. I'm pretty obsessed with well made, cut and styled outwear. My latest addition comes from Universal Works, a UK based label who have impressed with early collections. Their rugged design eithic and workwear aesthetics are an interesting take on modern everyday clothing.
So here's the glorious, simple, yet eye catching Fell jacket that i recently purchased for the paltry some of £110 courtesy of the Oi polloi sale. I can assure you, the colour i chose was the very vivid blue.
Tuesday, 13 July 2010
Chicago, Detroit, New Jersey.... New York. The roots of house music spawned from the canyons of soul that engulfed each of these cities with their own take on the sound that was to become universally known as House. Great pioneers such as Frankie Knuckles and Francois K, Brought together a disco tinged sound with a 4x4 beat to create the first records of this new genre. But before House there was Garage and Garage was all about one Man and one of the most revered clubs of all time. Larry Levan and the Paradise Garage, 84 King Street Greenwich Village. Played out to a mostly black, gay crowd, Levans sets really epitomised the love and feeling of togetherness. I'm not going to try and document the details of such a history rich tapestry, instead I'm going to post a few photos which show where the music we call house came from and the joy that it emitted even then. Here's to Larry Levan and the true legacy he has left us with for without The Paradise Garage and the original mixing maestro, the love and warmth of house music would never have come to be.
Monday, 12 July 2010
1. Artist: No days off (24HR Party People)
2. Artist: Daisy Argyle (It's not that grim up north)
3. Warehouse Project, Manchester.
Saturday, 10 July 2010
Its been a fair old while since I've posted - for many reasons may i add (Mostly because I've been right on one most of the time if not working). However, I'm back once again like the renegade master.... It's Hot isn't it!?
Well, it's not as nearly as hot as Glastonbury was a few weeks back, so, In honor of the great festival in Somerset here's a hand picked selection of some of the records that had me gleefully going off my barnet in the gorgeous Festival sun. Enjoy....
Chromeo - Fancy Footwork
Someone must have had a serious overdose of Funk during Chromeo's set at Glasto, the tent was ramo with girls, boys, freaks, straights, queens, black, white, middle age back packers and new age travellers going bonkers. Of course, yours truly was right in the mixer with them. Montreal Electronic funk at its best i reckon.
Jamie Jones - Ruckus
Jamie Jones is someone whom i have a deep growing affection for, I've now seen him a good few times and each occasion i have been infatuated by his sound... Soulful and deep. The records this chap is dropping at the minute would have made Douglas Bader get up and cut some rug. Deep House and Tech mixed in with the most luscious Discofied breakdowns a funk aficionado like myself could ask for. He played this during his Hot Natured set on the Thursday night, unfortunately the tent was one of very few open, so it was completely packed out. However, i did manage to negotiate myself a small dancing enclave where i was able to get a groove on. The version i have of this has a two minute section at the end where it goes deep and dirty - i cannot find this version but you should get the gist with this. Dark, Moody, Sexy... Yo Yo, Where's the women at?
Jamie Jones (Electric Jones) - Mold On (Hot Creations)
As I've already stated in the little rant above, The records Jamie Jones, or in this case, Electric Jones, has been putting out have really been getting me going. Not only purchasing them for my own pleasures, hearing them out is a rather delightful experience for all involved. Mold on comes in the form of another deep and quite moody sounding piece of mastery that breaks down into the most glorious vocal and uplifting bit of sunshine one could wish to hear while rushing their tits off in a field. BIG SOUND!
Aeroplane - We Cant Fly
This has admittedly raked up some air time on radio one etc, but still, it needs to be addressed that this is a great record and one that couldn't have been more appropriate to bouncing around the fields of Pilton too while suitably refreshed from various chemicals and countless slugs of goon juice. Reggae Disco anyone? Damn straight, Just serve with sun for instant satisfaction.